NOTE: The 3/4″ master cylinder is intended for use on cars with front disc brakes. If your car has drum brakes on all four wheels, you will want our 7/8″ bore master and slave kit, available here.

Installer’s Note: Check the length of your push rods before installing the new master cylinder!!Two different lengths of push rods were used depending on the size of the bore of the master and it’s impossible to know who has installed what over the years. The correct push rod length for the 3/4″ master is roughly 3 11/16″. If you find your car has longer (about 4 1/8″ or so) push rods installed, you will need to cut them down, as the shorter push rods are not currently reproduced. We offer new longer rods for sale should your old rods be pittedhere.

Buy our master and modified slave together and save!

Masters and slaves corrode and leak frequently. This is the best master cylinder and slave combination on the market… we have tested these and found them to last the longest. These are the same parts we use on all the restorations that leave our workshop. If you are replacing one, you should replace the other, otherwise, you might end up having to bleed the whole system all over again sooner than you might like!

This kit includes a 3/4″ bore premium master cylinder, which is best for disc brake cars. Also included is a 7/8 bore slave cylinder, correct for all Spridgets through 1974 that have slaves fed by a metal feed line. (if you have a rubber feed line for your slave, you’ll need a 1″ slave cylinder… use the drop down menu to choose.)

Note: The bleeder screw on the slave can sometimes come from the supplier with the bleeder screw in the forward-facing hole on the slave. This is done for shipping purposes, but is incorrect for installation, as the bleeder needs to be in the top hole to allow the air to be bled from the clutch hydraulic system properly! We generally try to swap it to the correct hole before we ship it, but sometimes we don’t catch it. See the photo of the slave properly installed with the bleed screw facing upward for easy bleeding.

Installation note 2: When removing and installing the master, it’s strongly recommended to use a crow foot wrench since the lines are in such tight quarters. It’s very difficult to get a tight seat when trying to use a traditional wrench. You can purchase our crow’s foot wrench by clicking here.

Also be sure to inspect the forks on the end of your push rods for worn out holes! Click here for a handy article on worn push rod forks, and order new ones from our catalog by clicking here.